My earliest recollections of my Italian family are of my Grandmother. She was my Nana. My father's mother. She was a handsome, thin little woman with a warm smile and, in these memories, silver hair that she kept in a neat short hairstyle. I now realize she wore a wig. She had beautiful skin, and a slight tic that would occasionally cause her to raise her eyebrows, or wink or blink twice or three times in rapid succession. It didn’t happen often - maybe once or twice a day. When she was tired or stressed it did become noticeable, even to a small boy of five or six. When I was much older I overheard her confide in my mother that these episodes embarrassed her when they happened on the train, because she didn’t want men to think she was flirting with them.
Back then she lived in an apartment in the Marcy projects, a public housing project off of Marcy Avenue in the Bedford-Stuyvesant section of Brooklyn, New York. If you have heard of the Marcy projects and you are not from Brooklyn, it is probably because Shawn Corey Carter, the rap artist better known as Jay-Z, grew up there. If you haven't heard of Jay-Z you have almost certainly heard of his wife, Beyonce Knowles.
This was not the Italian Neighborhood my Dad grew up in, but was not far from it. Even back then it was a rough neighborhood, though Bed-Stuy had yet to earn its terrible reputation. My memories of the place are sketchy. There was the playground with a great jungle gym and some concrete tubes that looked like they would be fun to play in, but always smelled of wine and urine because substance-abusing homeless people often slept in them. I also remember laying on my back and looking up at trees in the middle of about 20 or more tall buildings, and that all the other kids there were black, and most of them older, and since I also didn’t live there, I seldom found anyone who would play with me. I am certain that Jay-Z was not one of these kids, since this was two or three years before he was born.
I remember that we had to take the elevator up to Nana’s floor, and the elevator stunk of metal and of pine scented cleaner that did not quite mask something even less-wholesome underneath. But what I remember most clearly is opening the door to Nana’s apartment into light, and warmth, and the wonderful smell of Italian cooking wafting out at me. Nana would meet us at the door in a housecoat she would hug me, the housecoat left her arms bare, and her hands always felt cold, primarily from having just washed them. You see, we typically arrived just as she was either dredging potato croquettes in egg and breadcrumb, or hand-rolling tiny meatballs for her lasagna. I also remember staying over at that apartment one Christmas. My parents took the subway back to Manhattan, and Nana and I went to midnight mass. When we returned home, before going to bed, she lit a candle on a little shrine she had set up with a couple statues of saints. That is really all the memories I have of that apartment. In 1967 or so, when I was about six, she moved out into a smaller less-expensive apartment in a quieter neighborhood.
Potato Croquettes
3 pounds potatoes
6 eggs
1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1/2 cup milk
1 cup flour
1 cup breadcrumbs
Salt
freshly ground black pepper
Peel the potatoes and cut into small cubes, cook and cool them.
Mash the potatoes in a large bowl. incorporate the cheese and 4 of the eggs into the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper.
Pour flour onto a large plate and the breadcrumbs onto another large plate. Beat the remaining 2 eggs with the milk and pour this mixture into another large plate.
Starting with a ball of potato mixture about the size of an egg, form your croquettes using your hands (it helps to coat your hands in flour). The croquettes should look like fat tubes about 2 inches long and 1 inch in diameter. Dredge the croquette in flour, then the egg mixture, and finally, the breadcrumbs. Continue until all potato mixture is finished.
Carefully place 5 or six croquettes in hot oil and fry until they turn a deep golden brown, about 4 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Repeat until all the croquettes are fried. You can serve them right away.
We'll that's enough for this post, we'll revisit my Nana in other neighborhoods she lived in a few posts from now. She was an amazing woman who raised two boys pretty much on her own, working in the textile industry in the 1940s and 50s, but next post we meet more of the family, and find out about the Monster in my Uncle Andy and Aunt Agnes' back yard, how I got a fish confused with part of my anatomy, and why I was afraid of a chicken.What can I say, it's Italian!
Torre's Tips:
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
-A valid U.S. passport is required for entry. No visa is necessary for U.S. citizens.
-Non-US citizens, please contact the nearest consulate or embassy of the country to which you are traveling to determine your entry/visa requirements.
LANGUAGE
-Italian
CURRENCY
--The Euro. Exchange rates vary, but currently are about: 1 U.S. Dollar = .83 Euro
LOCAL TRANSPORTATION
-Rome's Fiumicino Airport, also known as Leonardo da Vinci, is about 18 miles (30 km) from the city.
-There is an express rail service between the airport and Termini Station, which takes about 30 minutes and runs hourly from 7am-10pm daily. Tickets in either direction cost approximately $8 (15,000 lira).
-A taxi between the airport and the city costs about $40 (80,000 lira), including a surcharge (11,500 lira from the airport, 14,000 lira from the city). Use only yellow or white officially licensed cabs lined up at ranks.
-Major car rental companies have desks at the airport.
ELECTRICITY
-240V AC. Standard 110V AC U.S. electrical appliances won't work, but some dual-voltage models may be compatible using an adapter--check with the manufacturer.
HEALTH & SAFETY
-Just as you would when traveling to any large city, consult a major guidebook or check with your hotel about precautions to take, and use common sense.
-You may have heard of Mad Cow disease (which affects humans) and Foot & Mouth disease (which only affects livestock). As a general rule, refrain from eating meat such as beef, veal, lamb or pork of European origin. (Fortunately, many restaurants are serving meat from other countries, such as Argentina.) Check out www.cdc.gov/travel/ for further information, or ask your doctor.
EUROPEAN VALUE ADDED TAX
-Many purchases are subject to a Value Added Tax (VAT) usually about 17%. Refunds are available in many cases for non-European Union (EU) citizens. Make sure the store fills out the necessary forms for each purchase, bring all purchases and the paperwork to the Customs VAT counter at the airport prior to departure, and have them stamped. Usually, you will mail the forms from the airport and receive a credit card reimbursement.
-Each traveler returning to the U.S. is entitled $400 of goods tax-free. For any dollar amount above that, there is a percentage fee.
TELEPHONE TIPS
-Country code: 39
-City code: 06
-Dialing from the US: 011 + country code + city code + local number.
-Calling home from abroad: Ask your long-distance company (e.g. AT&T, MCI, Sprint) for rates and access numbers from overseas. It is often cheaper to buy a local phone card to call home.
CALLING CUSTOMER SERVICE:
When calling Customer Service from Italy, dial 172-1011 prior to the toll-free number printed in your confirmation e-mail.
NOTE: U.S. State Department passport, visa and travel advisory information can be found at www.state.gov/www/services.html.